What I Loved (and Didn’t) About Living in Southern Italy
I never planned on moving to the south of Italy. It was one of those life pivots that happened very — too fast to have time to second-guess it. One day I was in Istanbul, and the next I was booking a one-way flight to Rome, job offer in hand. From Fiumicino Airport, I caught a southbound train to Bari – a coastal city I knew nothing about.
I arrived early in the morning and did what I love doing the most when I arrive in a new place – I went for a walk. That’s when I noticed the light—soft in the early mornings, diffused over stone streets and shuttered windows but then growing sharper, clearer, almost metallic and blinding by midday. I got lost in the maze like streets of Bari Vecchia only to find myself staring out onto the sea while standing on the edge of the Lungomare Imperatore Augusto – a wide, elegant promenade that runs along the edge of the old town, separating the ancient stone walls from the Adriatic Sea. The sea shimmered with impossibly clear shades of blue.
I stayed in Bari for nearly two years. I traveled as often as I could—Matera, Castro, Ostuni, Monopoli, Trani. I learned more than I expected about food, culture, and what it means to live in close relationship with the land. Like anywhere, there were things I loved and things I didn’t. But my time there left a lasting impression.
Here’s what stood out most.
What I Loved…
The Food (It Changed Me)
It’s hard to describe how deeply food is woven into life in southern Italy. Markets moved with the seasons. Every stall offered something fresh, local, and full of flavor. I didn’t need recipes—just good ingredients and there were plenty here to choose from. Flat white onions from Margherita, sun-warmed tomatoes, handmade pasta, sea salt from the coast. Eating became more than nourishment; it became connection.
Even my young students knew the concept of zero-kilometre food—eating what’s grown nearby to support local traditions and protect biodiversity. Food wasn’t just fuel. It was pride. It was culture. And for me, it was a quiet re-education. It reminded me of what food can be when we slow down and care about where it comes from.
Surprisingly Easy Gluten-Free & Plant-Based Living
As someone who has a gluten intolerance, moving to a new country usually means bracing for label-reading fatigue and limited options. But Bari surprised me—in the best way. Not only did I find plant-based milks and gluten-free products at regular supermarkets (rice milk became my go-to), but most restaurants offered gluten-free dishes too. There was even a 100% gluten-free café, Colibrìo, with amazing desserts, and Bari Napoli, which served a solid gluten-free pizza.
A High Quality of Life (If You’re Employed)
Bari is small, but it buzzes. Cafés, bars, a lively high street with familiar brands—and just a few blocks away, the sea. The cost of living is low, public healthcare is excellent, and trains can take you to beautiful towns in under an hour. It’s easy to feel like you’ve figured life out. But here’s the catch: good jobs are hard to find. Salaries in the region are low, and if you lose your job, there aren’t many options. The quality of life is wonderful—but it depends on stability.
Sushi Nights at Xuan
In a city known for seafood and traditional southern dishes, discovering Xuan felt like finding a hidden gem. This all-you-can-eat sushi spot quickly became a favorite—both for the quality of the food and the cozy, modern atmosphere. Everything is made to order, from delicate nigiri to creative rolls, and the ingredients are consistently fresh and well-prepared. It became a ritual: sushi nights at least twice a month, lingering over plate after plate with friends. Xuan offered a welcome shift in flavor while still honoring the freshness that southern Italian cuisine is known for—and for that, it earned a special place in my Bari experience.
What I Didn’t Love…
Allergies That Never Quit
One of the biggest challenges I faced living in the south of Italy was allergies—specifically to Parietaria, a wall-growing weed that thrives in Mediterranean climates. I had never even heard of it before moving, but soon learned it’s one of the region’s most aggressive allergens. Its pollen is lightweight, highly allergenic, and spreads easily through the air, often triggering persistent symptoms like sneezing, congestion, itchy eyes, and fatigue. Unlike many seasonal allergens, Parietaria can bloom almost year-round, especially in coastal areas like Bari. Combined with the humidity and occasional mold issues in older buildings, it became a constant battle—one that, ultimately, made it hard for me to stay. If you’re allergy-prone, especially to pollen or mold, it’s something to seriously consider before relocating.
Weather Extremes
There’s not much in-between here. It’s either hot or rainy. And when it rains, it rains. The city isn’t built for wet weather, so everything feels a little grey and sluggish during the winter months (November to March). Then summer arrives, and the heat becomes relentless. I’m not much of a beach person, so I often felt out of sync with the lifestyle.
Looking Back
Southern Italy isn’t home for me—but I’m so grateful I had the chance to live there. It shaped the way I think about food, time, and quality of life. It reminded me that slowing down isn’t lazy—it’s essential. I learned a lot in those two years, even from the things I didn’t love.
Would I move back? Probably not.
Would I go back to visit? In a heartbeat.
Have you ever been to southern Italy? What left the biggest impression on you? I’d love to hear your story.
